‘Every Culinary Artist Must Train Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.
Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.
An Surprise Recognition
This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.
“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.
A Namesake Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.
Surpassing the Titans
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
A Creed of Heart
It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
The Journey of Hard Work
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
A Achievement for the Culture
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.